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Truly one of the most remarkable trips of my life so far.
It was fabulous. And everything went extremely well. A trip is always an adventure, and of course a few unwelcome things usually arise along the way. There wasn't even that "price" to pay on this trip.
It was very, very unlike anything I've ever done before. (With one exception, which was in the same vein, but that lacked some of the ingredients present here.)
All of my other trip reports relate to adventures as a tourist.
This was not tourism... but along the way there were many experiences that a tourist would envy.
I teach computing the way private music lessons are taught. I visit the pupil's home about once a week, assess earlier work, teach some new material, set some challenges for the coming week. (Well, that's the theory!)
The parents of one of my pupils had a civil wedding ten years ago... life was too full, too busy for more back then. She is Romanian, he is German. They live near me in England these days.
Finally their day for a proper wedding with all the trimmings came along.
Of course it would be in the bride's home town. She is very lucky by today's standards: She had a stable childhood, in one place. A large extended family still live where she grew up.
They invited me to Romania for the festivities!
The parties also celebrated my pupil's 10th birthday!
Wow! These are very kind, generous people! They did a magnificent job of planning everything... the "big stuff" like booking the hall for the main party (there were several!) and many, many details... even arranging a driver to take me from the airport to their town. (65 miles).
About fifty people had a WONDERFUL time!
Left UK on Wednesday, 23 July, evening.
Arrived in Romania 1am on 24 July. (11pm UK time).
Morning of the Thursday 24th, I had a great tour of Sibiu with a tour guide/ driver who then took me to Deva... a drive of about 90 minutes. This all arranged for me by the bride. Not expensive.
Wedding was at 1pm Saturday, 25th. Thence to a wonderful party.
Took part in fun things before and after wedding... details further down the page.
Morning of 28th, "normal", fully included in planned activities, but two of us had to eat lunch quickly to depart... (sad face!)... to go to the airport. Happily, the morning's activities had taken us half-way there.
Three hours in the plane brought me back to the UK, landing early evening, and a bit under 3 hours with the airport car service I always use got me... home.
WHAT AN AMAZING FEW DAYS I'D HAD!
(Fun fact: The same man drove me to and from the airport... and he came from Romania!)
View from SSE.
From RomaniaTourism.com/deva.html. Possibly by facebook.com/radut.eddie
North is at the top in the first image, but it is at the right in the second and third images.
Images from Google and Google Earth
You can see that Deva is a "proper town"... but set in a wonderful landscape. And the town has many trees and green spaces. (Population c. 50,000).
Ukraine is to the north.
Most of my time in Deva was in the part of town in the lowest image, in gthe upper part of what's shown, well away from the busy big roads in the foreground.
(But at least it is no longer "...woeful imbalanced...", as the text said for a while.)
The Best Bit was the warm welcome I was given by everyone, and the lovely people I partied with! (There's more to come on them and the parties, and the main events: The wedding and wedding / birthday party banquet!)
In the last image above, there's a large hill at the right. At least it looks large in this image. Try to find it in the other pictures... it's there!
From the town it looked very large. There's a massive fortress on the top. I climbed up to it from the town... twice!.. and it seemed very very large when climbed! But! Can you even find it in the other photos? (It is there!)
There's more on this... much more!.. further down the page.
The main event...
Those who know me know that I am enthusiastic about church music.
The music for the wedding was outstanding.
No "hymns" or "anthems"... but much of the service was chanted, and there were extended passages which I took to be prayers and blessings.
I'm sure that what I about to say is wide of the mark... but: Think "Russian bass". Thinking back as I write this, I'm not sure if there was any instrumental music! I don't think so, but the choral music was so "huge", that it was more than adequate. Some people I asked assumed he music was a recording, or a choir of up to a dozen singers. In fact: Just four men hidden in a high balcony.
A YouTube clip... not quite what we had at the wedding, but similar. (It comes with some nice images of things similar to the church's extensive decorations.)
Cutting the cakeS: ...wedding cake, and... 10th birthday cake!
(The photos in this were mostly taken by me. I've tried to give a credit in other cases. If you want a copy of one at a higher resolution than I've used for the web page, by all means get in touch. Please explain whether you were there... I didn't manage everyone's names. Blush.)
By the way... I'm a little nervous about publishing people's photos on the web, and this is getting in the way of telling the story of some parties and outings... but bear with me... more photos to come!
Here are the elements of the trip. There will be a section that recounts some of my experiences chronologically, and some things will be discussed there. And others will get their own sections... maybe even pages.
Wednesday, 23 July, 2025
Afternoon: Collected by airport taxi for journey to Luton- my first use of that airport. (NW of London.)
One a.m. Thursday local time, 11pm "body time". Arrived Sibiu. Sibiu airport pleasant. Thought my bag hadn't made it for an alarming moment, but then spotted it by itself on a far portion of the already stationary belt. Whew.
Sibiu is about 75 minutes by car from my final destination, Deva. I spent what was left of night at airport hotel. Taxi collected me, as per slightly uncertain arrangements through helpful hotel. Airport hotel- Mercure Sibiu Airport, nice.
I'd booked a "basic" room- for two because it cost very little more than for one, which is normal and understandable. I thought maybe someone else coming to the wedding would also need a bed in Sibiu that night.
My "basic" room was huge. AND the connecting door to the huge room next door was open, giving me a two room suite! (Two bathrooms, even!)
If only I'd had reason to be there for more than 9 hours, most of them sleeping!
Thursday, 24 July, 2025
As planned for me by my hostess, I was collected from hotel at 10 am. Driver gave me a tour of Sibiu before we set off for Deva. Enjoyable... both for his entertaining company, the lovely old buildings in the heart of town, and for the people encountered. My first taste of Romania was very agreeable.
Actually... it wasn't totally my first taste of Romania. On one of my walking circuits in Chichester, I often stop to talk with a security guard I go past. He's from Romania, and a nice person. (And the person who drove me to (and from, as it happened) Luton was also Romanian!)
In Sibiu, my guide/ driver taught me my first bits of the Romanian language. When the pretty waitress brought our coffees at the cafe, I was instructed to say "Merci, Prinţesă". (Romanian is a Romance language... some words shared with French. (Prinţesă : Princess). I used the phrase for the rest of my trip, thanking pretty girls and wrinkled old men. Always got a laugh.
What is the one thing you should always know in the language of your destination? You can do "thank you" with a smile. "Please" with a tone of voice. You can mime many wants. But knowing the words for "Where are the toilets?" is recommended.
After the pleasant time in Sibiu, I was driven to Deva. (c. 75 minutes... good major roads.) Checked into hotel. By now the bride and the groom had been in touch: "Collect you at 5pm". Set out for a stroll in neighborhood, 3pm, and by chance was seen by the groom, the bride and the birthday boy. They were en route to party banquet venue, for some setting up. Joined them. That was a much better way to spend afternoon. Had fun.
Most of my time in Deva involved going up and down "Strada Mihai Eminescu"... a pleasant significant, but not "main" thoroughfare. (More on this later.)
Evening- Visit to bride's sister's home, outside the heart of Deva, "around", "behind" the big hill with the fortress. (To the north of central Deva.) Not far, but already the feeling of being in a big town was absent.
Sister's son, a splendid lad (18... I think!) with good English, was a very good host. Proudly showed me their extensive livestock in the strip of land behind the house... second dog (first was in front yard), chickens, (once had ducks... but they disappeared one night!) etc. And plenty of vegetables, fruit, flowers etc a-growing, too. He'd just left school... he showed it to me later, as it was across the way from where the wedding/ birthday banquet took place. He was there from the age of 6 up to 17! He will start an IT course in September. Enjoyed his company several times over the trip.
Womenfolk busy with preparation of nails, etc, etc. Enjoyed the first of many sessions of being slightly lost among a big group speaking (mostly) Romanian and German... languages I don't have. But felt very welcome, anyway! The happy mood of anticipation for the Big Day spread perfectly well without words.
Evening... the bride's childhood home. Met parents... and many more besides! This was a special evening, with a lovely meal. Met brothers and a nephew of groom, and some of groom's from-childhood friends.
Friday, 25th July, 2025
Calm before the storm!
Went around to bride's family home in the morning. Visited a small area set up with climbing frames, etc, for kids, and exercise equipment for all ages. Further bonding with groom's brother. Fun times with groom's son and his cousin who was a delightful child.
Was part of Expedition (on foot, not far) down to heart of old town, to town's market. Very vibrant. Found replacement shorts. It was very hot... 90s? (F) (32 C)... on sunny days, which most were. (There was a bit of rain on some days AFTER the wedding day.)
Had time to myself in the afternoon. Made first ascent to the fortress... by the stairs route. Shorter! By very steep and intimidating! Saw a splendid green lizard... 22cm? There were signs warning of vipers. I didn't see one of them, alas. (Started c. 15:00. At top of stairs 15:35. Back at top of road 16:30. Back at hotel a little before 17:00
Saturday, 26th July, 2025
Quiet morning to myself in my lovely hotel- Villa Venus, Strada Mihai Eminescu 16. It is a family owed and run establishment... and it shows. Lovely rooms, public and private. You feel welcome. Great food.
The practice there is to leave your key at reception when you go out, and you aren't given a key to the front door... something which I repeatedly forgot, and got back late. And it was clear that someone had had to stay up, knowing I'd need letting in. And yet no displeasure was ever evident. (I feel sure I could have had a door key if I'd thought to explain I'd be back late. Sigh. Oh well.)
I was taking it easy in the hot weather. It wasn't as dry as Colorado, so the heat was noticable... but neither was it very humid, and thus bearable... if you were careful or in shorts.
Driven to the church by one of the other guests- much appreciated! Episcopal Cathedral of St. Nicholas, Strada Avram Iancu 1, locally known as the Catedrala Sf. Nicolae. (lat/long: 45.8853, 22.9028)
Arrived about 12:15, well before general crowd, thanks to the need for several trips by the kind person who drove me. It was very pleasant to see it when quiet. Priest arrived, and greeted me pleasantly, had no reason to imagine I was more than a tourist.
Very beautiful. Very peaceful. As per the orthodox tradition- no pews. There were some stalls around the periphery. (For the 80 minute service, the congregation were allowed the use of some stacking stools. Whew! The priest's stamina was magnificent... he spent most of the service chanting. And chanting well, by the way.)
This was just one of many, many beautiful details in the church. A small, rather obscure window.
One of the people I met kindly explained the following, when he saw my image: This is Saint Joseph The New (not Jesus's father), the protector of Banat. From Basilica.ro/en/orthodox-calendar-september-15/: He was born in 1568 at Raguza in Dalmatia. He wa a healer, and a virtuous man. In 1650, at the age of eighty-two, he was elected Metropolitan of Timishoara. He once extinguished a fire in the western part of Timishoara by his prayers, when God sent a heavy rainfall. (See also en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timi%C8%99oara_Orthodox_Cathedral. (Thank you Dorian for your help with this!)
Started promptly at 1 pm. The radiant bride was escorted into the church and down the aisle by her lovely father. Her son did an outstanding job with the magnificent train to her gorgeous dress.
(The bride and groom stayed in their finery (minus train) for the rest of the day... and into the night. I don't know how they managed it, in the heat, but it certainly added to the grandeur of the occasion.
((More to come on wedding itself!!))
About 2:45, we left the church, complete with showers of rose petals for the bride and groom. The number of details they ensured were part of the days of festivities was breathtaking. Those details, and the taking care of specific needs of guests from as far away as the USA.
The Big Wedding + Birthday Party was held in some very nice rooms with excellent kitchens about a half mile from the church. The bride and groom, and a cluster of well wishers walked there, with a detour en route to Citadel Park (45.8857, 22.9000) for photos. (Our excellent evening at Restaurant Perla, https://restaurantperladeva.ro/meniu/, a few days later was on a small rise beside the park.)
Google Streetview
Along the way, we passed the secondary school the bride attended, underlining the wealth of her still-present roots someplace... which so many in this "modern" world do not have. And aren't the pupils lucky to have such splendid trees at the start and end of their days?
Photo of Casina: Google Streetview
At 3pm, the party at the excellent Casina (Piața Unirii 9) kicked off.
Cake cutting! Eating! Speeches! Drinking! Kids playing outside! Dancing! Eating!... it was too delicious to ever feel "full"! Dancing! (more) Singing!
Much more to say about the party! And photos to come!
It ran late into the night!
Photos of the feast: Regina
Here are some of the courses we enjoyed from 3pm onwards until late into the night. But there were also beverages. And a delicious yellow soup that I've failed to include in the image. And every part of every course was delicious, and of high quality.
I am in awe of how much the groom and the bride arranged.
The meal alone was a masterpiece... and there were so many, many other details. And once the show was on the road, they behaved as if it was all "easy", and never showed any stress at the last minute little "excitements" which invariably arise.
AND they had time for every one of the many family members and guests.
It was amazing.... and wonderful.
Sunday, 27th July, 2025
Sunday morning: A little "lie in"! Another excellent breakfast at my hotel. I very much fear that I was almost the only person there the first day... but they still set out the magnificent buffet.
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Late morning, "the troops" gathered.
TripAdvisor
We started with a visit to excellent Museum of Dacian and Roman Civilization at bottom of the big hill in Deva with the citadel. (Link takes you to TripAdvisor comments). It was much more than just the archaeology. Dinosaurs! Other natural history. Good modern video presentations. Extensive.
Then we went up the hill to the citadel, sometimes in light rain (pleasantly cool!), in a large group, ages 8(?, sorry J if that's wrong!) to at least 73... and over, I think!) On the left, you can see part of the group forming jup outside their lodgings. The rain stopped for us while we were at the top, exploring the citadel. (If you were there, and can firm up those numbers, please get in touch! (^_^))
Sadly, much of the upper parts were lost in 1849 when an ammunition warehouse exploded. Some out of date comments on the web say the citadel is derelict. Not at all! Recently it has been made very visitor-friendly. (Including some loos at the top!)
From Wikimedia.org, and in the public domain
View from the West.
The etching shows the citadel from the west. The image is by Ludwig Rohbock. I obtaioned it from Wikipedia- (Link to online copy of book this comes from.) (There's more at an article in www.romaniajournal.ro.)
The citadel is huge. See the person on the stairs in the photo (left of here) of the lower terraces on the west side? (Upper right part of photo!)
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I struggled to find the height of the hill... my best guess is 460 feet... roughly equivalent to a 46 story building. It seemed bigger!
An article in www.britannica.com/place/Deva-Romania seems to say the hill is 627 feet high... but from OpenStreetMap, with the cyclOSM layer in place, I got the 460 feet. Sigh. I think I trust the latter more, but maybe I made a mistake in how I read it?
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Whatever the height, it was fun to climb... although the "stairs" option was "a bit" challenging. (Their location is marked "1st" in the overhead view further down the page.)
Overhead view of stairs. 220 feet as seen from above. The diagonal distance from the foot of the stairs to the top is greater, of course. Image from Google Maps.
The annotated image below is an aerial view of the citadel. North is at the top, and the town is south and southeast of here.
"A" is well up the hill. I passed this spot twice going up, and twice going down, but reached it by different routes. It is at the top of a minor car-capable road, and also at the top lovely path through the woods on the south flank of the hill. The path starts in the park wehere wedding photos were taken, and which our restaurant overlooked on the evening of the 27th.
On my first climb to the citadel, on my own, I went "straight up" via a set of stairs. That route is marked "1st", and the phto below appears elsewhere.
On my second climb, with many of the bride and groom's family and friends, we went up the broad- but- defended road marked "2nd", and again shown in a photo.
But those weren't all the options!
At "B" you can carry on up the roadway... or take a shortcut via some more stairs. At their top, a "tower" of stairs is needed for the final "push" to get to the top of the fortress ramparts.
That leaves the bottom small photo to the left of the main photo. That is what you could see if you looked slightly south of west from the spot where the red dot is, at the top of the citadel.
All clear?! It was great fun.
On! One last thing... the tram... Apparently it hasn't worked for a while. There was a man snoozing in the booth at the top, looking as if he sold tickets when awake... but the tram hasn't worked for a while. A pity for those who can't walk up... but a helpful absence of temptation for the rest of us. And it reduces crowding at the top.
(Prettier?...)
Later on Saturday, 27 July, we visited a superb medieval fortress in the city of Hunedoara, about 7 miles South of Deva. Call up a Google Maps aerial image of the area for a glorious sight.
It was amazing! We went over, under, around and through it!
It was laid out in 1446. According to Wikipedia it is "one of the most important monuments of Gothic architecture in Romania...[and] considered one of the largest castles in Europe". (It is also known as Corvin Castle.)
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Image from Wikicommons, from Wilhelm Schmidt: Die Stammburg der Hunyade in Siebenbürgen 1865
Nothing exceeded my respect for prudence, but it was a delight to be allowed access to places that might not be considered healthy, safe, or accessible to the disadvantaged in the UK...
Monday, 28th July, 2025
The day I went back to my everyday life... :-( ... after a great morning with everyone at Alba Iulia...
Alba Iulia was outstanding, but there were other events in the same league... not to mention the parties!...It is random luck that so much about it has appeared here before other events...
Morning of 28th... we had a professionally guided tour of this magnificent and interesting place.. Alba Iulia... about half way between Deva and Sibiu. (46.0680, 23.5729, What3Words.com/sponge.train.jogging (Zoom out after using the What3Words link.)
Leaving out the "points" of the fort's "stars", the enclosed area was about 1,500 feet across... about 2/3rds of the diameter of what is inside Chichester's city walls. A huge, fortress, with cathedrals, palaces, barracks, etc, etc. And LOTS of history! Yes: some of these things are also true of Chichester... but Chichester today has little of the things like this of the past. And it was never so massively fortified.
(Photo from the web, credited there to Florela Petculescu.)
The aerial view doesn't do justice to the moat. It is visible in the aerial, but you have to look for it.
Note the runner in the photo below. Using the tree near the far wall... which as I recall someone could stand under without stooping, this part of the moat seems to be at least 20 feet deep. The sidewalk the other side of the wall behind the tree is at least 6 feet below the top of the wall... so there's no danger of someone falling in.
However, there is a place where outside top of the brick arch over a "tunnel" down into the outer wall can be climbed easily. It just asks to be climbed! I did it. So did two younger members of our party... but I timed my excursion better. And only went up once. From up there, there is nothing between you and a long drop.
(I'll try to find time to say more about tunnels, moat, etc... The tunnels are marked in yellow, the brick arch things are in the green circles. The top of the tunnels are at the brick arch. They meet underground, and empty into the moat via a shared short horizontal passage. There's a funny story!)
Coronation Cathedral, inside the fortifications. Romanian Orthodox cathedral was built soon after, and in commemoration of, the union of Transylvania with Romania. It is the seat of the Romanian Orthodox Archdiocese of Alba Iulia. Built in 1921–1922, in time for the coronation of King Ferdinand and Queen Marie as monarchs of Greater Romania on October 15, 1922. (Text adapted from Wikipedia entry.)
So many words! The point is that it is magnificent.
My photos of this, and of the church in Deva are, I hope you will agree, gorgeous.
But I have to tell you that they utterly fail to capture the glorious mood inside the churches. I cannot get the colors right. The photos fail to convey the haunting beauty in both spaces. Think Vaughan Williams, Theme on Tune by Thomas Tallis, for the mood inside the churches.
Two of us who were departing on afternoon flights were able to partake... hastily... of an excellent lunch at the spa/ resort where everyone else had a wonderful afternoon of swimming and relaxing. Ah well.
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