Yes! We saw tigers. We should have done, the work we put in towards that goal!

But we saw many other elements of the tiger's ecosystem as well. Of course, it would have been a disappointment, but I think I can honestly say that I would still have enjoyed the trip... almost as much... if we had been unlucky on the tiger front.

Not only did we "see" tigers, but we had a special encounter with an particularly magnificent mature male.

Further account of the Great Encounter, and of our other tiger sightings to come.

Although it might be hard to accept the fact, two other animal encounters were perhaps more remarkable. We briefly glimpsed the Indian Wild Dog, or dhole. Sadly, only a brief glimpse of several members of a pack... but I would guess that far more people see tigers, and not everyone does, than see dholes. Of course, the dhole, caninophile that I am not-withstanding, isn't quite as magnificent as a tiger. But perhaps harder to see.

And then there was our encounter with the sloth bear and her cub... another superb encounter, and an animal that can be hard to see.

More on all of the above, and more photos to be moved here from the "EnRoute" pages, in due course.

Saw huge rock python. Sadly, no photo.

Will list the deer-like creatures, so important as tiger food, in due course.

Birds

One hundred and thirty three species... without getting too intense about every passing LBJ.

And, at last, to photos...

Dog was in Shimla, on the mall. He and all the others were just beginning to feel the benefit of the morning sun, and cheering up somewhat. Half an hour before, they were all huddled close, and looking exceedingly miserable.

I was very good for three weeks. Did you know that a rabid dog does not always show any signs? Just a friendly lick on a hand with a scratch or a scrape, and you are in trouble. And you can't wait and see. Get treatment before symptoms, or don't trouble your doctor, just go to the hospice.

I didn't stroke two dogs in the WHOLE trip! That's not to say there were just two dogs I didn't stroke. Nor does it say my "score" wasn't over zero.

Saw this particular gaur (-WP-), or Indian bison, on our very successful game drive in Satpura. (The name "bison" is misleading, as the qaur is a cow or ox (Bos), not bison (Bison).) (Saw them elsewhere from time to time, too.)

Looks pretty benign, doesn't he? And, as he isn't standing beside our Land Cruiser, you can't see how big he is. Gaurs are the largest bovine in the world today. Average weight is 1,430 to 2,200 lb, with an occasional large bull weighing up to 3,300 lb. (A 1967 Volkswagen Beetle weighed about 1,800 lb.)

Tigers sometimes think twice before taking on an adult gaur. Said by Wikipedia to be less aggressive than the Cape buffalo. I still called him "Sir", and kept my distance.

On right: Rare Barasinga, or "swamp deer". pp Wikipedia, this subspecies down to only about 350 at 2000, all in Kanha National Park (where we saw them). Also at 2000, only about 2600 individuals of the other two sub-species of this member of the deer (Cervidae) family.

Left: Languar
Right: Jackal. Shortly after I took this photo, the jackal successfully hunted a spotted dear fawn. "Sad", perhaps, but jackals need energy to survive, too.

How could I, once upon a time long ago, have failed to "get" how marvelous elephants are?

(The pictures show individuals of the same species, perched and flying.)

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Barking deer. Small.. only about 40cm at shoulder. Seen in forest at Bandhavgarh.

My room, Wildflower Hall, to the east of Shimla. Photo taken, turned 90 degrees to left from working position, from my nice desk, with good chair, adequate desk lamp, sufficient electrical outlets. (Other hotels take note, please. Superb view outside window. Several stories up the side of the hotel.

On the right: A closeup of the little card you see on the table in the overview photo.

As the room faced east, and had good double glazing, it got quite warm in the morning. But, when you look, you will see that the sign doesn't say "closed when not in your room....."

I was happily working away at my desk... catalogue of books from one of "my" antiquarian dealers... when something made me look to my left. I hadn't heard any sound. "Just happened" to look left.

He was quite unconcerned by my presence. Mostly ignored clapping, "shoo!", etc. Eventually, he quite calmly, 5 feet from me, entered room, sauntered onto desk... didn't feel like an orange this morning (see previous picture of view from desk)... and took a packet of biscuits I had on the desk.

On a subsequent visit ("Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me") he again eschewed the oranges. Instead he sauntered over to the mini bar, opened it, and selected a packet of potato chips! I made a point of settling my bill, including the chips, before joking with the man on reception about my poor macaque management. (He wanted to reverse the charge, but that hardly seemed fair.)

I say "fool me twice, shame..."... but I was alert for a maurauding macaque. The room, east facing, was getting quite warm. I opened the window, but was alert. And then went into walk in closet for but a moment...

Subsequently, I tied my clothesline (A) between the window handles, making it hard to open them far, and balanced some cutlery (B) precariously on the partly open window, to create an "alarm", in case it was pushed.

Quote from friends who travelled to India in about 2000, in a different style....

"What a contrast with the room I slept in in Shimla. OK, so I only paid 100 rupees per night (then around £1.50). There was a lock on the door, but none on the window and the monkeys knew how to open the catch. I took all my belongings with me, and wedged the window shut with an upturned table!"

And I'm delighted to say...

We didn't "see" any mosquitos or other biting or stinging insects. Well, hardly any. Despite the fact that several of our doctors agreed that for the Madhya Pradesh segment we should take anti-malarials.

Indeed... come to think of it... we didn't see a lot of insects, in general. Hmm. Worry?

Seriously: I think the wonderful (near) absence of mosquitos was down to the often slightly cool, often breezy weather. Not really unpleasant (apart from the one or two spectacular thunderstorms... always welcome, in moderation... but preferably when we are in bricks and mortar... with non- monkey damaged roofs.)

At King's Lodge, for the nights (the dangerous time for malaria), we were provided with the marvelous "mosquito coils", which are rather fun. I'll try to provide a photo. Did you know that the relevant mosquito doesn't make a noise? If you hear the mossie, you may have to scratch for several days, but you won't get malaria... I think... but I'm not a doctor, remember.)

May you use photos from this site? Want to contact me?

If you find yourself wanting to use a photo on this site, please see my page about using web-published material which is copyright TK Boyd. If you want to contact me, here's my eddress, or you can use the contact form. (Email best, as the contact form is often abused, and I don't read all messages arriving that way.) Corrections to bad information on the pages very welcome... don't be shy!

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